Barney Flanders is one of the Mornington Peninsula's most revered grower-winemakers, and the Garagiste Stagiaire sits firmly among Australia's great Pinot Noir overachievers. This vintage sees Barney's newly added Merricks North fermage — home to 30-year-old Dijon 114 and 115 clones — contributing 42% to the blend, with the balance drawn from his long-standing Balnarring (40%), Red Hill (10%) and Merricks Grove (8%) sites. It's a clever combination: the MV6 clones from those older sites bring natural structure and power, while the Dijon clones from Merricks North add plush texture and perfumed lift.

In the winery, spontaneous fermentations unfolded in concrete and stainless steel, with a 5% whole bunch component adding spice and complexity. Thirty days on skins with gentle handling, followed by seven months in 300-litre hogsheads on lees with just 5% new oak. Unfined and unfiltered — as it should be.

In the glass, this is quintessential grower Mornington Pinot: bright and perfumed, with red berries, baking spice and earthy depth, underpinned by a juicy mid-palate, a powerful core and a refreshing mineral line. Outstanding value, outstanding wine.